Dec
24
Filed Under Needlework | Comments Off
jo asked:
ssell
In this article we cover in very basic terms the different kinds of yarns that most knitters would use & the reasons for choosing one over another.
Background……….
Yarn is a string composed of interlocked fibers used in the production of textiles, crocheting, sewing and knitting.
There are many different fibers that can form a knitting yarn. Cotton is the most popular natural fiber and wool is the most common animal fiber. However, other types of animal fibers are used too, like angora, cashmere and the latest trend in knitting yarns - the alpaca knitting yarn. The alpaca fibers that form a knitting yarn are notable for their strength, which is significantly higher than that in wool fibers, for their softness and, moreover, the alpaca fiber comes in an impressive range of natural colors from white, beige, light brown, dark brown, to black.
Blending for quality ………..
However, it had been demonstrated that by blending alpaca fiber with wool, we obtain a yarn of a higher quality. When it comes to the knitting yarn composed solely of sheep’s wool, we talk of two categories of wool used in knitting yarn: worsted and woolen.
The yarn that results from worsted wool is smooth and firm, whereas the one that results from woolens is fuzzier and not so strong
Other Types ……….
. As for the natural fibers, silk and linen are also used for knitting yarn. Knitting yarn can be also made of synthetic materials, chiefly acrylic. There are all acrylic yarns or acrylic blended with wool. Nylon is another synthetic fiber used in a small quantity in the yarn designed for use in socks as an example.
There are many different types of knitting yarns you can find obviously according to quality and price. You want. For example, you can find usual yarns like cotton and wool and then luxury yarns like super merino, pure silk, possum worsted, Hana silk, baby alpaca, zephyr (50% Chinese Tussah Silk and 50% fine Merino wool)
What you need to know before choosing…………
You need to know the properties of your knitting yarn because they affect the look and the feel of the garment. Your first point of call & where you can find out a lots of information is by looking at the label, such as the fiber content, weight, type of the knitting yarn, and its suitability for the project you have in mind and naturally how many meters of knitting yarn you have and washing instructions.
In most instances however the pattern from which you’ll be knitting will identify and/or suggest the best material with which to knit the item. It is also advisable to buy a little more knitting yarn than the pattern requires.
About Yarn Weight ……………….
Yarn weight is the thickness of the knitting yarn. You will see there is a vast range going from very fine weight or baby weight and chunky yarns as well.
What does it mean?
Yarn weights are separated into different categories, six categories actually. There is: 1-first a baby, fingering, sock category, which is super fine
2- the second category is is called baby, sport category and is fine yarn weight;
3- the DK, light, worsted category which is light,
4-the afghan, aran, worsted category,
5- the chunky, craft and rug category and the fifth,
6- super bulky yarn weight which can be bulky and roving.
In the UK yarn is labeled in ply. A ply is a single strand of yarn. Lace weight, or 2-ply/3-ply is a very fine yarn used for lacy garments. Scarves and baby clothes.
Fingering knitting yarn or 4-ply is used for baby clothes but also for adult clothes.
From Around the World
Sport weight or DK 8-ply in Australia it is a very popular type of yarn because not only it comes in different colors, but it also comes in a range of different effects, such as heather, blushed, tweed and more; Aran, worsted or triple, 12-ply in Australia is generally used for heavily texture garments; chunky or bulky, 14-ply in Australia is a heavy yarn used to make large sweaters and jackets. This last category is called in America super-bulky.
RICKEY
ssell
In this article we cover in very basic terms the different kinds of yarns that most knitters would use & the reasons for choosing one over another.
Background……….
Yarn is a string composed of interlocked fibers used in the production of textiles, crocheting, sewing and knitting.
There are many different fibers that can form a knitting yarn. Cotton is the most popular natural fiber and wool is the most common animal fiber. However, other types of animal fibers are used too, like angora, cashmere and the latest trend in knitting yarns - the alpaca knitting yarn. The alpaca fibers that form a knitting yarn are notable for their strength, which is significantly higher than that in wool fibers, for their softness and, moreover, the alpaca fiber comes in an impressive range of natural colors from white, beige, light brown, dark brown, to black.
Blending for quality ………..
However, it had been demonstrated that by blending alpaca fiber with wool, we obtain a yarn of a higher quality. When it comes to the knitting yarn composed solely of sheep’s wool, we talk of two categories of wool used in knitting yarn: worsted and woolen.
The yarn that results from worsted wool is smooth and firm, whereas the one that results from woolens is fuzzier and not so strong
Other Types ……….
. As for the natural fibers, silk and linen are also used for knitting yarn. Knitting yarn can be also made of synthetic materials, chiefly acrylic. There are all acrylic yarns or acrylic blended with wool. Nylon is another synthetic fiber used in a small quantity in the yarn designed for use in socks as an example.
There are many different types of knitting yarns you can find obviously according to quality and price. You want. For example, you can find usual yarns like cotton and wool and then luxury yarns like super merino, pure silk, possum worsted, Hana silk, baby alpaca, zephyr (50% Chinese Tussah Silk and 50% fine Merino wool)
What you need to know before choosing…………
You need to know the properties of your knitting yarn because they affect the look and the feel of the garment. Your first point of call & where you can find out a lots of information is by looking at the label, such as the fiber content, weight, type of the knitting yarn, and its suitability for the project you have in mind and naturally how many meters of knitting yarn you have and washing instructions.
In most instances however the pattern from which you’ll be knitting will identify and/or suggest the best material with which to knit the item. It is also advisable to buy a little more knitting yarn than the pattern requires.
About Yarn Weight ……………….
Yarn weight is the thickness of the knitting yarn. You will see there is a vast range going from very fine weight or baby weight and chunky yarns as well.
What does it mean?
Yarn weights are separated into different categories, six categories actually. There is: 1-first a baby, fingering, sock category, which is super fine
2- the second category is is called baby, sport category and is fine yarn weight;
3- the DK, light, worsted category which is light,
4-the afghan, aran, worsted category,
5- the chunky, craft and rug category and the fifth,
6- super bulky yarn weight which can be bulky and roving.
In the UK yarn is labeled in ply. A ply is a single strand of yarn. Lace weight, or 2-ply/3-ply is a very fine yarn used for lacy garments. Scarves and baby clothes.
Fingering knitting yarn or 4-ply is used for baby clothes but also for adult clothes.
From Around the World
Sport weight or DK 8-ply in Australia it is a very popular type of yarn because not only it comes in different colors, but it also comes in a range of different effects, such as heather, blushed, tweed and more; Aran, worsted or triple, 12-ply in Australia is generally used for heavily texture garments; chunky or bulky, 14-ply in Australia is a heavy yarn used to make large sweaters and jackets. This last category is called in America super-bulky.
RICKEY
Nov
10
Filed Under Needlework | Comments Off
Maddy Cranley asked:
Knitting in its simplest form is often described as the looping of a string around two sticks. When faced with multi-color patterning, intricate stitches or detailed graphs, this seemingly easy craft becomes a more complex activity that can benefit from an innovative tool or two. Right from the start when the ideas for a new knitting project abound, there are aids to guide you in choices of yarn and color. Color wheels and color selectors, using proven principles of color theory, can steer you through establishing a pleasing color combination of two or many colors. Even though you may pick the perfect geranium pink to match that perfect leaf green, you still must find commercially available yarns of compatible weights in those very colors. Many yarn retailers offer, at a reasonable cost, sample cards of available yarns in their full color range. Much like selecting paint chips at the hardware store, you are able to see at a glance what colors are available in a particular yarn and how they interact with other colors of that yarn type.
The screwdrivers and wrenches of knitting, the needles, though basic in shape, appear in a variety of materials. Wood and plastic offer comfort to tired hands, while metal needles promise speed. A luxury class of needles fashioned from ebony or rosewood are advertised as hewn from the remains of prized woods used in the manufacture of musical instruments. These needles should make your stitches sing. There is also the “heritage“ needle collection of which mine is labelled, due to many being borrowed from my mother’s knitting basket and never returned. A “classic” collection will likely contain a hodgepodge of needles gathered over the years as in mine, which range from a chipped orange metal No. 4’s to green plastic No. 8’s. It’s an odd grouping of materials and colors but favorites are easily recognizable when a certain knitting job comes to mind.
Now any good craft project whether made from wood or wool is only worth its weight when measurements are accurate and consistent. To knitters, the correct gauge must be achieved or every measurement throughout the project will become skewed. With numerous devices available to help accurately measure those all-important numbers of stitches and rows, there is absolutely no excuse for having the wrong gauge. A square gauge frame will force you to line up your knitting with the stitches at right angles to the rows, leaving you to count the numbers between the borders of the frame. Transparent stitch templates will tell you nothing but the truth as you try to match the drawing of the desired stitch gauge to the stitches of your knitted sample. A good tape measure, plastic or cloth, retractable or not, is essential to measure those lengths and widths once you start knitting.
To see those stitches clearly, use a magnifier lamp clamped to your favorite chair or stood behind the sofa. Try a pair of magnifying flip-up lenses to increase your staying power when working with intricate stitches and dark colors. Don’t forget to prop up that book or pattern on a bookstand to keep your charts and graphs front and center. A line magnifier placed over the chart on a magnetic board will eliminate a lot of twisting and turning in your seat as you lean to squint at those lines. Once you have found your place there are gadgets to keep it. Stitch markers and row counters mark the spot and giant safety pins put stitches on hold.
A collection of tools needs a toolbox. Needles should be organized in needle cases, one for the straights and another for circulars, small boxes or bags for the bits and pieces such as stitch markers and measuring devices, and a great big bag or basket to keep it all handy and neat.
SHAUN
Knitting in its simplest form is often described as the looping of a string around two sticks. When faced with multi-color patterning, intricate stitches or detailed graphs, this seemingly easy craft becomes a more complex activity that can benefit from an innovative tool or two. Right from the start when the ideas for a new knitting project abound, there are aids to guide you in choices of yarn and color. Color wheels and color selectors, using proven principles of color theory, can steer you through establishing a pleasing color combination of two or many colors. Even though you may pick the perfect geranium pink to match that perfect leaf green, you still must find commercially available yarns of compatible weights in those very colors. Many yarn retailers offer, at a reasonable cost, sample cards of available yarns in their full color range. Much like selecting paint chips at the hardware store, you are able to see at a glance what colors are available in a particular yarn and how they interact with other colors of that yarn type.
The screwdrivers and wrenches of knitting, the needles, though basic in shape, appear in a variety of materials. Wood and plastic offer comfort to tired hands, while metal needles promise speed. A luxury class of needles fashioned from ebony or rosewood are advertised as hewn from the remains of prized woods used in the manufacture of musical instruments. These needles should make your stitches sing. There is also the “heritage“ needle collection of which mine is labelled, due to many being borrowed from my mother’s knitting basket and never returned. A “classic” collection will likely contain a hodgepodge of needles gathered over the years as in mine, which range from a chipped orange metal No. 4’s to green plastic No. 8’s. It’s an odd grouping of materials and colors but favorites are easily recognizable when a certain knitting job comes to mind.
Now any good craft project whether made from wood or wool is only worth its weight when measurements are accurate and consistent. To knitters, the correct gauge must be achieved or every measurement throughout the project will become skewed. With numerous devices available to help accurately measure those all-important numbers of stitches and rows, there is absolutely no excuse for having the wrong gauge. A square gauge frame will force you to line up your knitting with the stitches at right angles to the rows, leaving you to count the numbers between the borders of the frame. Transparent stitch templates will tell you nothing but the truth as you try to match the drawing of the desired stitch gauge to the stitches of your knitted sample. A good tape measure, plastic or cloth, retractable or not, is essential to measure those lengths and widths once you start knitting.
To see those stitches clearly, use a magnifier lamp clamped to your favorite chair or stood behind the sofa. Try a pair of magnifying flip-up lenses to increase your staying power when working with intricate stitches and dark colors. Don’t forget to prop up that book or pattern on a bookstand to keep your charts and graphs front and center. A line magnifier placed over the chart on a magnetic board will eliminate a lot of twisting and turning in your seat as you lean to squint at those lines. Once you have found your place there are gadgets to keep it. Stitch markers and row counters mark the spot and giant safety pins put stitches on hold.
A collection of tools needs a toolbox. Needles should be organized in needle cases, one for the straights and another for circulars, small boxes or bags for the bits and pieces such as stitch markers and measuring devices, and a great big bag or basket to keep it all handy and neat.
SHAUN
Nov
7
Filed Under Needlework | Comments Off
Maddy Cranley asked:
In these tough economic times, the new buzzword is definitely “save”. Banks and financial institutions want to save your money for you, towns and cities want you to save your garbage in recycling containers, the environmental movement wants you to save the rain forest along with the spotted owl, and store discounts promise to save you money at the checkout line.
Knitters are well-known as experienced savers, actively stalking yarn and constantly scouting around for new colors and textures. Once the game is bagged, they furtively store it in the nooks and crannies of their homes, much like squirrels hide nuts for a coming winter. Sometimes, it is forgotten as to where these stashes have been hidden. Coming across a misplaced cache of yarn can be a welcome surprise, only to open the bag or box, look at the contents, wistfully mutter “maybe not yet”, and put it back where it was found.
Serious knitters love to caress skeins of yarn, testing the softness of its hand, poring over sample cards while envisioning how this yarn and no other could knit up into that dreamy raglan-sleeved pullover with the funnel neck. The germinating ideas, though always creative, are likely too ambitious and are reined in by the constraints of available knitting time. Alas, if enough time passes between purchase and cast on, it is often forgotten why that particular yarn was purchased in the first place. Much like a financial portfolio, a yarn stash can always benefit from a scheduled review and be put to good knitting use before it suffers a devaluation in texture or color.
It seems odd but even something seemingly quite basic as yarn can start to look dated. Former trendy yarns such as chenille and fur textures, once popular, move over on the needles to make room for yarn types presently on the drawing boards of spinners and manufacturers. Even the most keen-eyed knitter is unaware of what is coming in future trends as new production techniques and methods are always in the wings. It is more than certain that innovative textures and yarn varieties will emerge and take their place on store shelves.
Of course, color can definitely date a yarn and a particular color combination can look somewhat old-fashioned within a few years, no matter how carefully it was chosen. Yarn manufacturers take great pains in “composing” their sample cards. By placing one color near a compatible hue or within groups of colors displaying the same intensity or brightness, they hope to optimize the overall visual appeal of the yarn. At this moment, color councils, who dictate color trends to the fashion industry, are hard at work choosing what colors will be fashionable two to three years from now. There is more to the popularity of certain colors than simple whim and chance. Knitting stashes can become unwitting fashion victims to these trends.
Knitted garment styles are constantly changing as well. If a particular yarn was purchased to enhance a garment style, the chosen design may have lost its appeal with the passage of time. Classic styles knit with basic yarns can help to alleviate this particular stash dilemma. It is always hard to believe that a current trend will ever go out of fashion but it is only with hindsight that we see the subtle changes and shifts in our tastes and choices. Certainly some elements may become classics but be warned not to save your yarn for too long in order to make a fashion statement.
At the rate stashers buy yarn, one might think that they have an inside track or knowledge of a hot tip in regard to an impending yarn shortage. Stashes that are saved for too long and are not turned over may require a re-evaluation of their potential. Investment of the stash for the long term would have to be done with the hope that perhaps the fashion cycles will bring these yarns back into vogue. Don’t forget to protect an investment with moth and pest repellents, review the yarn portfolio often, and increase the turnover rate of the stash. If nothing else, promise yourself that you will save plenty of time for knitting this year.
EARNEST
In these tough economic times, the new buzzword is definitely “save”. Banks and financial institutions want to save your money for you, towns and cities want you to save your garbage in recycling containers, the environmental movement wants you to save the rain forest along with the spotted owl, and store discounts promise to save you money at the checkout line.
Knitters are well-known as experienced savers, actively stalking yarn and constantly scouting around for new colors and textures. Once the game is bagged, they furtively store it in the nooks and crannies of their homes, much like squirrels hide nuts for a coming winter. Sometimes, it is forgotten as to where these stashes have been hidden. Coming across a misplaced cache of yarn can be a welcome surprise, only to open the bag or box, look at the contents, wistfully mutter “maybe not yet”, and put it back where it was found.
Serious knitters love to caress skeins of yarn, testing the softness of its hand, poring over sample cards while envisioning how this yarn and no other could knit up into that dreamy raglan-sleeved pullover with the funnel neck. The germinating ideas, though always creative, are likely too ambitious and are reined in by the constraints of available knitting time. Alas, if enough time passes between purchase and cast on, it is often forgotten why that particular yarn was purchased in the first place. Much like a financial portfolio, a yarn stash can always benefit from a scheduled review and be put to good knitting use before it suffers a devaluation in texture or color.
It seems odd but even something seemingly quite basic as yarn can start to look dated. Former trendy yarns such as chenille and fur textures, once popular, move over on the needles to make room for yarn types presently on the drawing boards of spinners and manufacturers. Even the most keen-eyed knitter is unaware of what is coming in future trends as new production techniques and methods are always in the wings. It is more than certain that innovative textures and yarn varieties will emerge and take their place on store shelves.
Of course, color can definitely date a yarn and a particular color combination can look somewhat old-fashioned within a few years, no matter how carefully it was chosen. Yarn manufacturers take great pains in “composing” their sample cards. By placing one color near a compatible hue or within groups of colors displaying the same intensity or brightness, they hope to optimize the overall visual appeal of the yarn. At this moment, color councils, who dictate color trends to the fashion industry, are hard at work choosing what colors will be fashionable two to three years from now. There is more to the popularity of certain colors than simple whim and chance. Knitting stashes can become unwitting fashion victims to these trends.
Knitted garment styles are constantly changing as well. If a particular yarn was purchased to enhance a garment style, the chosen design may have lost its appeal with the passage of time. Classic styles knit with basic yarns can help to alleviate this particular stash dilemma. It is always hard to believe that a current trend will ever go out of fashion but it is only with hindsight that we see the subtle changes and shifts in our tastes and choices. Certainly some elements may become classics but be warned not to save your yarn for too long in order to make a fashion statement.
At the rate stashers buy yarn, one might think that they have an inside track or knowledge of a hot tip in regard to an impending yarn shortage. Stashes that are saved for too long and are not turned over may require a re-evaluation of their potential. Investment of the stash for the long term would have to be done with the hope that perhaps the fashion cycles will bring these yarns back into vogue. Don’t forget to protect an investment with moth and pest repellents, review the yarn portfolio often, and increase the turnover rate of the stash. If nothing else, promise yourself that you will save plenty of time for knitting this year.
EARNEST
Oct
28
Filed Under Needlework | Comments Off
Knit Picks asked:
Alpaca
Hailing from South America, the alpaca belongs to the camelid family that also includes camels, llamas, guanacos and vicunas. They are a docile breed whose fleece spins into luxurious yarns. More than three quarters of the world’s alpaca population resides in Peru.1 In centuries past, the alpaca was an incredibly valuable animal, even more so than precious gems! Clothing created with alpaca was restricted for use by royalty. The alpaca has been domesticated and is treated as one of Peru’s national treasures. England has the double decker bus, the U.S. has Mt. Rushmore, and Peru has their alpacas. What a diverse definition of treasure!
Alpaca fleece is a “protein fiber”. This doesn’t mean knitting with it will make you stronger, it merely indicates that the fiber comes from an animal- namely, the alpaca. Alpaca fiber is strong, warm, and comfortable. Each fiber is hollow which makes it incredibly lightweight. Even the most delicate alpaca garments are warm for this reason. Perhaps alpaca’s greatest feature is that it can be worn next to the skin comfortably. The explanation for this is the behavior of the scales on the exterior of the fiber itself. They all lie flat in the same direction, making for a smooth surface. Less expensive than cashmere and with the strength of mohair, alpaca is highly desirable and functional. As with most natural fibers, alpaca needs to be handled with care when it comes to water exposure. Be sure to read and heed the washing instructions on your yarn or sweater.
While there are 2 breeds of alpaca, Huacaya and Suri, the former makes up a whopping 95% of the population.2 Differences between the two are numerous and as you may have guessed from the percentages, the Suri is harder to come by. Suri qualities include fleece that grows downward like human hair in wavy or curly locks with a silky texture. Huacaya fleece is coarser and grows straight outwards, at a right angle to the skin of the alpaca.
When alpaca fiber is processed, it is evaluated and sorted into one of several categories based on its micron count (in layman’s terms: the softness quotient). Micron count is a technical measurement determined by studying a sample of alpaca fleece and calculating the average diameter of the shaft of each fiber. Baby alpaca might have a micron count in the high teens whereas superfine alpaca would fall in the mid-twenties. The lower the number, the finer the fiber. *Please note that baby alpaca is a classification group, meaning it doesn’t always come from young alpacas. It merely refers to any fibers from an alpaca’s fleece that fall within said micron count. While fibers become coarser as an alpaca ages, it is possible for older alpacas to continue to produce fibers that fall in the baby alpaca micron count range.
If all of this jargon confuses you, then you might relate better to the methods used by Peruvian women who hand sort all of the fibers and determine their classification based on how they actually feel.3 The finest and softest feeling fibers are tagged as baby alpaca, and so on for fine and superfine yarns. Fiber from various parts of the animal can have different feels.
SMOOTH OPERATOR
Knitted garments made of alpaca have some interesting properties. You should know that alpaca yarn is pretty stubborn when it comes to elasticity. It’s not that it won’t give, it actually has a tendency to be too generous. If you knit dense stitches and patterns or hang heavy embellishments on it, it will become distorted with no hopes of regaining its youthful figure. This is due to the aforementioned smoothness of the fibers. Since the scales lie flat in the same direction, the plies or strands of an alpaca yarn slide past each other instead of clinging and gravity can take its toll on the fabric. Gravity, as we know, can sometimes cause an undesirable elongating effect. So make those 100% alpaca projects light and airy, or use a blend for greater resilience and elasticity.
Speaking of which, all blends happen for a reason. There are ways to make alpaca yarn work for every project and that is by blending it with complimentary fibers. Blended yarns are not created arbitrarily. Wool, for instance, is a highly crimped fiber and therefore offers some elasticity. Since alpaca fibers contain only shallow waves, mixing in some wool makes an otherwise unyielding yarn a little more forgiving. Suri Dream is a hand knitting yarn innovation exclusive to Knit Picks. Imagine wearing a mohair sweater that wasn’t scratchy. Having trouble? By combining the super soft feel of Suri alpaca with a touch of wool and winding it around a strong nylon core, we have created an elegant alternative to mohair that causes zero discomfort. Sounds like a real dream to me!
Sources:
1“A Shaggy Business” The Economist. Vol. 377, Issue 8455, p. 38. 12/3/2005.
2Quiggle, Charlotte. “Alpaca: An Ancient Luxury” Interweave Knits. Fall 2000.
3Lavan, Cindy. “Evaluating Alpaca Fleece” AlpacaNation – Alpaca Industry’s Central Marketplace. June 2002. http://www.alpacanation.com/articles/AlpacaFuture_Oct02.asp
GEORGE
Alpaca
Hailing from South America, the alpaca belongs to the camelid family that also includes camels, llamas, guanacos and vicunas. They are a docile breed whose fleece spins into luxurious yarns. More than three quarters of the world’s alpaca population resides in Peru.1 In centuries past, the alpaca was an incredibly valuable animal, even more so than precious gems! Clothing created with alpaca was restricted for use by royalty. The alpaca has been domesticated and is treated as one of Peru’s national treasures. England has the double decker bus, the U.S. has Mt. Rushmore, and Peru has their alpacas. What a diverse definition of treasure!
Alpaca fleece is a “protein fiber”. This doesn’t mean knitting with it will make you stronger, it merely indicates that the fiber comes from an animal- namely, the alpaca. Alpaca fiber is strong, warm, and comfortable. Each fiber is hollow which makes it incredibly lightweight. Even the most delicate alpaca garments are warm for this reason. Perhaps alpaca’s greatest feature is that it can be worn next to the skin comfortably. The explanation for this is the behavior of the scales on the exterior of the fiber itself. They all lie flat in the same direction, making for a smooth surface. Less expensive than cashmere and with the strength of mohair, alpaca is highly desirable and functional. As with most natural fibers, alpaca needs to be handled with care when it comes to water exposure. Be sure to read and heed the washing instructions on your yarn or sweater.
While there are 2 breeds of alpaca, Huacaya and Suri, the former makes up a whopping 95% of the population.2 Differences between the two are numerous and as you may have guessed from the percentages, the Suri is harder to come by. Suri qualities include fleece that grows downward like human hair in wavy or curly locks with a silky texture. Huacaya fleece is coarser and grows straight outwards, at a right angle to the skin of the alpaca.
When alpaca fiber is processed, it is evaluated and sorted into one of several categories based on its micron count (in layman’s terms: the softness quotient). Micron count is a technical measurement determined by studying a sample of alpaca fleece and calculating the average diameter of the shaft of each fiber. Baby alpaca might have a micron count in the high teens whereas superfine alpaca would fall in the mid-twenties. The lower the number, the finer the fiber. *Please note that baby alpaca is a classification group, meaning it doesn’t always come from young alpacas. It merely refers to any fibers from an alpaca’s fleece that fall within said micron count. While fibers become coarser as an alpaca ages, it is possible for older alpacas to continue to produce fibers that fall in the baby alpaca micron count range.
If all of this jargon confuses you, then you might relate better to the methods used by Peruvian women who hand sort all of the fibers and determine their classification based on how they actually feel.3 The finest and softest feeling fibers are tagged as baby alpaca, and so on for fine and superfine yarns. Fiber from various parts of the animal can have different feels.
SMOOTH OPERATOR
Knitted garments made of alpaca have some interesting properties. You should know that alpaca yarn is pretty stubborn when it comes to elasticity. It’s not that it won’t give, it actually has a tendency to be too generous. If you knit dense stitches and patterns or hang heavy embellishments on it, it will become distorted with no hopes of regaining its youthful figure. This is due to the aforementioned smoothness of the fibers. Since the scales lie flat in the same direction, the plies or strands of an alpaca yarn slide past each other instead of clinging and gravity can take its toll on the fabric. Gravity, as we know, can sometimes cause an undesirable elongating effect. So make those 100% alpaca projects light and airy, or use a blend for greater resilience and elasticity.
Speaking of which, all blends happen for a reason. There are ways to make alpaca yarn work for every project and that is by blending it with complimentary fibers. Blended yarns are not created arbitrarily. Wool, for instance, is a highly crimped fiber and therefore offers some elasticity. Since alpaca fibers contain only shallow waves, mixing in some wool makes an otherwise unyielding yarn a little more forgiving. Suri Dream is a hand knitting yarn innovation exclusive to Knit Picks. Imagine wearing a mohair sweater that wasn’t scratchy. Having trouble? By combining the super soft feel of Suri alpaca with a touch of wool and winding it around a strong nylon core, we have created an elegant alternative to mohair that causes zero discomfort. Sounds like a real dream to me!
Sources:
1“A Shaggy Business” The Economist. Vol. 377, Issue 8455, p. 38. 12/3/2005.
2Quiggle, Charlotte. “Alpaca: An Ancient Luxury” Interweave Knits. Fall 2000.
3Lavan, Cindy. “Evaluating Alpaca Fleece” AlpacaNation – Alpaca Industry’s Central Marketplace. June 2002. http://www.alpacanation.com/articles/AlpacaFuture_Oct02.asp
GEORGE
Oct
11
Filed Under Needlework | Comments Off
kliz03 asked:
Before starting to knit, get the stitches on the knitting needle. To start, take the Worsted Weight Yarn and measure out a length, and first of all start with a slip knot and it’s just a standard slip knot where the thread is looped through and then the loop is pulled through and the slip knot slides back and forth. It’s like a child’s finger knitting. The slip knot slides onto the knitting needle and this is the first stitch.
This procedure takes both hands. You hold your knitting needle, which is your working needle with your one stitch in your right hand and with your left hand you have to take your yarn and form an L with your fingers and go between those two strands of yarn. With your remaining three fingers you want to grab the tail ends, so that your yarn looks like that in your hand.
Now, to get the stitches on to the knitting needle, you have to take the point of your needle and scoop up the bottom thread, bottom yarn on your thumb and then reach up and scoop the yarn on your index finger through that loop on your thumb. Release your thumb and snug up your stitch and that is your second stitch. Do it again. Take your knitting needle; Scoop up that bottom yarn on your thumb and now scoop the top thread on your index finger through the loop on your thumb, releasing your thumb and snugging up the yarn. Do that a few more times. It takes a while to get used to the cast on, but once you do, it can go very quickly.
The cast on edge is different on both sides. There is a smooth side or a public side. This would be the right side of your knitting project and then there is also the back side which is a little bit bumpy, doesn’t look quite as tidy as the public side. Once again you have your tail of your yarn and the yarn connected to your skin of yarn. You take your thumb and index finger and go in between the two yarns threads and spread them out and grab the remaining tail yarns with your remaining three fingers. Take your point of needle and scoop it into the bottom yarn on your thumb and then catch the yarn on your index finger and pull it through the loop. Release your thumb and snug up the stitch. You will do this procedure for as many stitches as you need for your knitting project.
This article has described how to cast on when learning how to knit. For more lessons, here are a few basic how to videos with great tips on knitting: http://www.monkeysee.com/play/5538-knitting
CONRAD
Before starting to knit, get the stitches on the knitting needle. To start, take the Worsted Weight Yarn and measure out a length, and first of all start with a slip knot and it’s just a standard slip knot where the thread is looped through and then the loop is pulled through and the slip knot slides back and forth. It’s like a child’s finger knitting. The slip knot slides onto the knitting needle and this is the first stitch.
This procedure takes both hands. You hold your knitting needle, which is your working needle with your one stitch in your right hand and with your left hand you have to take your yarn and form an L with your fingers and go between those two strands of yarn. With your remaining three fingers you want to grab the tail ends, so that your yarn looks like that in your hand.
Now, to get the stitches on to the knitting needle, you have to take the point of your needle and scoop up the bottom thread, bottom yarn on your thumb and then reach up and scoop the yarn on your index finger through that loop on your thumb. Release your thumb and snug up your stitch and that is your second stitch. Do it again. Take your knitting needle; Scoop up that bottom yarn on your thumb and now scoop the top thread on your index finger through the loop on your thumb, releasing your thumb and snugging up the yarn. Do that a few more times. It takes a while to get used to the cast on, but once you do, it can go very quickly.
The cast on edge is different on both sides. There is a smooth side or a public side. This would be the right side of your knitting project and then there is also the back side which is a little bit bumpy, doesn’t look quite as tidy as the public side. Once again you have your tail of your yarn and the yarn connected to your skin of yarn. You take your thumb and index finger and go in between the two yarns threads and spread them out and grab the remaining tail yarns with your remaining three fingers. Take your point of needle and scoop it into the bottom yarn on your thumb and then catch the yarn on your index finger and pull it through the loop. Release your thumb and snug up the stitch. You will do this procedure for as many stitches as you need for your knitting project.
This article has described how to cast on when learning how to knit. For more lessons, here are a few basic how to videos with great tips on knitting: http://www.monkeysee.com/play/5538-knitting
CONRAD
Oct
8
Filed Under Needlework | Comments Off
Gina Williams asked:
Loom knitting is as well referred to as French knitting, reel knitting, spool knitting, box knitting, rake knitting, ring knitting, bung knitting, frame knitting etc Loom knitting is an historic fine art that has recently found a revival. Knitting nowadays is highly popular all over the world. And the revival of knitting looms in the world of knitting has given all knitters a grounds to smile.
Looms were used extensively in the medieval age in nations like Britain, France, Germany and many other places in Europe. People used the technique of loom knitting to knit bags, purses, tasseled caps, petticoats, shawls, hammocks, curtains, nets, petticoats etc. A common opinion is that guild apprentices knit carpets for their masters on frame boards i.e, knitting looms.
Knitting looms can be separated in to three basic types- the round loom, the rake loom and the knitting board. The round loom is not necessarily round. It could be a square, rectangle, an oval or even diamond-shaped. All pegs of this loom are necessary to be continuous without any specific starting or stopping point. The distance between the pegs of this loom determines its gauge. A lot of space implies a lot of gauge.
There is not much difference between the round loom and the rake. However, the rake, second type of knitting loom, has continuous pegs which have a beginning and a finishing point. Once Again, the gauge of the pegs in this loom is defined by the length between them. Only flat knitting can be done on this type of knitting loom.
A knitting board is a loom with two twin rakes. These parallel rakes are used to knit across the loom. A double knit fabric can be created with the help of a knitting board. The gauge of this type of loom is marked by two factors- the length between its pegs and the space between its rakes. A wider gauge is created by a larger distance between either of the two.
Loom knitting is facilitated by the different devices on a knitting loom. The knitting looms that have single rows of pegs are called single rakes, while those having double rows of pegs are called double rakes. Knitting materials that have a distinctive right and wrong side can be made with single rakes. A double material with both right sides can be produced with the aid of double rakes.
The purpose pegs serve in loom knitting is same as the purpose needles serve in hand or machine knitting. Each peg in a loom is like a knitting needle which is used to make different patterns and stitches on a loom. Gauge is the length between the pegs of a loom. It is this standard of measurement that specifies the size of the stitches that can be produced, as also the thickness of yarn that would work the best for a particular loom.
Loom knitting has not only gained a return but also is acquiring popularity. It is easy to learn and the knitting looms are simple to use. Those who have given up crochet and needle knitting owing to arthritis, carpal tunnel syndrome or other such complaints can enjoy loom knitting instead. It does not require use of needles and is quite user friendly.
The trend of loom knitting is taking the world by storm and is for certain doing a lot good to the world of knitting.
MICAH
Loom knitting is as well referred to as French knitting, reel knitting, spool knitting, box knitting, rake knitting, ring knitting, bung knitting, frame knitting etc Loom knitting is an historic fine art that has recently found a revival. Knitting nowadays is highly popular all over the world. And the revival of knitting looms in the world of knitting has given all knitters a grounds to smile.
Looms were used extensively in the medieval age in nations like Britain, France, Germany and many other places in Europe. People used the technique of loom knitting to knit bags, purses, tasseled caps, petticoats, shawls, hammocks, curtains, nets, petticoats etc. A common opinion is that guild apprentices knit carpets for their masters on frame boards i.e, knitting looms.
Knitting looms can be separated in to three basic types- the round loom, the rake loom and the knitting board. The round loom is not necessarily round. It could be a square, rectangle, an oval or even diamond-shaped. All pegs of this loom are necessary to be continuous without any specific starting or stopping point. The distance between the pegs of this loom determines its gauge. A lot of space implies a lot of gauge.
There is not much difference between the round loom and the rake. However, the rake, second type of knitting loom, has continuous pegs which have a beginning and a finishing point. Once Again, the gauge of the pegs in this loom is defined by the length between them. Only flat knitting can be done on this type of knitting loom.
A knitting board is a loom with two twin rakes. These parallel rakes are used to knit across the loom. A double knit fabric can be created with the help of a knitting board. The gauge of this type of loom is marked by two factors- the length between its pegs and the space between its rakes. A wider gauge is created by a larger distance between either of the two.
Loom knitting is facilitated by the different devices on a knitting loom. The knitting looms that have single rows of pegs are called single rakes, while those having double rows of pegs are called double rakes. Knitting materials that have a distinctive right and wrong side can be made with single rakes. A double material with both right sides can be produced with the aid of double rakes.
The purpose pegs serve in loom knitting is same as the purpose needles serve in hand or machine knitting. Each peg in a loom is like a knitting needle which is used to make different patterns and stitches on a loom. Gauge is the length between the pegs of a loom. It is this standard of measurement that specifies the size of the stitches that can be produced, as also the thickness of yarn that would work the best for a particular loom.
Loom knitting has not only gained a return but also is acquiring popularity. It is easy to learn and the knitting looms are simple to use. Those who have given up crochet and needle knitting owing to arthritis, carpal tunnel syndrome or other such complaints can enjoy loom knitting instead. It does not require use of needles and is quite user friendly.
The trend of loom knitting is taking the world by storm and is for certain doing a lot good to the world of knitting.
MICAH
Oct
3
Filed Under Needlework | Comments Off
Maddy Cranley asked:
Knitting is a natural when it comes to creating stripes. A stripe is defined as \”a line or long narrow section differing in color or texture from parts adjoining\”. The needles act as the guardians of the straight line, that crossover point where changes in color or texture can be made. It is up for grabs how to fill in those rows that make up a stripe. The ever-popular horizontal line and color changes are just a start in choosing how to stripe a sweater.
It is quite simple to incorporate stripes of color into an uncomplicated knitting pattern. The more difficult choice is what colors to choose. Once yarns that are compatible in gauge and fiber content are assembled, the next step is to see how the chosen colors will relate to one another when placed in a striped pattern. General rules will apply such as dark lines on pure color will have the tendency to deepen the entire look of the garment. Light areas will appear larger than dark areas. Warm colors will pop out to the eye much more than cool colors.
Woven rugs and fabrics can offer up varied inspiration particularly if they embody a balance of color and stripe thickness to result in an eye-pleasing combination. An hour or two spent flipping through upholstery fabric swatches or wallpaper sample books may result in obtaining a dynamite sequence of striped color.
Stripes can vary by size from the bold stripes of a rugby shirt, which may have three or four large bands of color, to pinstripes and all sizes between. The stripes need not be uniform in size throughout the garment. Increasing or decreasing the size of the stripe by one or two rows and repeating the same sequence of those smaller and larger stripes will definitely add interest.
Stripes can also be distinguished by texture. Rows of garter stitch or seed stitch alternating with plain knitting create an understated stripe when only one color of yarn is used. A few rows of bobbles or of simple lace can create a stripe of interesting effect. Paying careful attention so that the gauge is the same for each chosen stitch pattern will avoid creating an unevenness in the finished measurement. Simple stitches to knit for subtle changes can be found in knitting dictionaries and stitch guides.
The placement of the stripes can also add further appeal. Use vertical or horizontal striping in the ribbing of bands and cuffs. Try a striped collar or pocket to stand alone on a plain-colored background. Begin to work stripes at the start of the garment piece and narrow the stripes to fade into a one-color finish. Stripe one sleeve and leave the other plain. Stripes do not have to remain horizontal. A little trickier to knit, vertical or diagonal stripes add their own flourish. Yarn bobbins will be needed and careful twisting of the yarns at color changeover points will keep your stripes in line.
So to earn your knitting stripes, incorporate several rows or more in your next project. Choose a simple pattern that will easily accept a change of stitch pattern and welcome a color change every few rows. It will all make for a very unique sweater, not to mention the release from guilt knowing that those leftover balls of yarn are being put to such good use.
PEDRO
Knitting is a natural when it comes to creating stripes. A stripe is defined as \”a line or long narrow section differing in color or texture from parts adjoining\”. The needles act as the guardians of the straight line, that crossover point where changes in color or texture can be made. It is up for grabs how to fill in those rows that make up a stripe. The ever-popular horizontal line and color changes are just a start in choosing how to stripe a sweater.
It is quite simple to incorporate stripes of color into an uncomplicated knitting pattern. The more difficult choice is what colors to choose. Once yarns that are compatible in gauge and fiber content are assembled, the next step is to see how the chosen colors will relate to one another when placed in a striped pattern. General rules will apply such as dark lines on pure color will have the tendency to deepen the entire look of the garment. Light areas will appear larger than dark areas. Warm colors will pop out to the eye much more than cool colors.
Woven rugs and fabrics can offer up varied inspiration particularly if they embody a balance of color and stripe thickness to result in an eye-pleasing combination. An hour or two spent flipping through upholstery fabric swatches or wallpaper sample books may result in obtaining a dynamite sequence of striped color.
Stripes can vary by size from the bold stripes of a rugby shirt, which may have three or four large bands of color, to pinstripes and all sizes between. The stripes need not be uniform in size throughout the garment. Increasing or decreasing the size of the stripe by one or two rows and repeating the same sequence of those smaller and larger stripes will definitely add interest.
Stripes can also be distinguished by texture. Rows of garter stitch or seed stitch alternating with plain knitting create an understated stripe when only one color of yarn is used. A few rows of bobbles or of simple lace can create a stripe of interesting effect. Paying careful attention so that the gauge is the same for each chosen stitch pattern will avoid creating an unevenness in the finished measurement. Simple stitches to knit for subtle changes can be found in knitting dictionaries and stitch guides.
The placement of the stripes can also add further appeal. Use vertical or horizontal striping in the ribbing of bands and cuffs. Try a striped collar or pocket to stand alone on a plain-colored background. Begin to work stripes at the start of the garment piece and narrow the stripes to fade into a one-color finish. Stripe one sleeve and leave the other plain. Stripes do not have to remain horizontal. A little trickier to knit, vertical or diagonal stripes add their own flourish. Yarn bobbins will be needed and careful twisting of the yarns at color changeover points will keep your stripes in line.
So to earn your knitting stripes, incorporate several rows or more in your next project. Choose a simple pattern that will easily accept a change of stitch pattern and welcome a color change every few rows. It will all make for a very unique sweater, not to mention the release from guilt knowing that those leftover balls of yarn are being put to such good use.
PEDRO